Michael Portillo's Long Weekends - Season 1

In this first episode, Michael visits one of his favourite European cities, the vibrant and bustling Spanish capital, Madrid.

A short flight from the UK, renowned as a city that never sleeps, Madrid is somewhere Michael knows well having visited it regularly for over 60 years. And this weekend will be one to remember, with spies in hotel bars, delicate suckling pig and exquisite charcoal grilled seafood, and an outrageous bespoke Spanish cape. There's even his boyhood home in the heart of the city.

Michael's weekend begins in the city centre on the busy Gran Via boulevard, which connects the city's east end, home to Madrid's famous Golden Triangle of art museums and El Retiro Park, with the western side, where the opulent Royal Palace sits.

Michael heads for an early lunch at a restaurant he knows well in the Old Town. Madrid is home to around 10,000 restaurants, and this institution was founded in 1725 making it the world's oldest restaurant with a wood fired oven that hasn't gone out in 300 years, apparently. There's only one dish on the menu: suckling pig.

For the more adventurous there are plenty of surprises in store. Hotel bars with a shady history of espionage, a traditional confectioner who makes a classic Spanish nougat, and a bespoke tailor specialising in a very stylish cape, all come into play.

For the culture vultures, Madrid doesn't disappoint either. Michael goes behind-the-scenes of the opera house El Teatro Real, open to the public seven days a week. He visits one of the world's greatest art collections, and finds time for the Royal Palace, one of Europe's largest with almost 3500 rooms, many of which are open to the public. Perfect on a Long Weekend getaway.

During his Long Weekend Michael also enjoys an Ecuadorian feast in the bohemian neighbourhood of Malasaňa, and a fantastic seafood lunch, grilled fresh over charcoal, in a little-known suburb outside the centre.

In between the hustle and bustle, Michael finds time to relax in the inner-city oasis that is El Retiro Park, once exclusive to the King and royal court, before squeezing in a visit to the family flat where he stayed as a boy, in the years after the Spanish Civil War.

Join Michael Portillo as he takes us on a Long Weekend in Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic and city of a hundred spires.

Michael first visited Prague 40 years ago when Czechoslovakia, as it was known then, was behind the Iron Curtain. But now it's totally transformed into a vibrant must-see city with amazing castles, wonderful gas-lit streets and beautiful eateries and places to see.

But beneath the buzzing surface, the city's darker past also makes it a must-visit for a long weekend. From the discovery of a secret nuclear bunker under his hotel and rebirth of Czech cold war cuisine, to daredevil circus acrobatics and hidden Soviet art, Michael takes us through a city where he finds so much has changed since he first went there.

Michael begins by crossing the stunning 13th century Charles Bridge heading to the British Embassy which he last visited in the 1980s when the city was under constant Soviet surveillance and meetings took place in the Embassy's garden to avoid being spied upon.

At Prague Castle, the world's largest ancient castle, Michael explores the striking St Vitus cathedral before stopping for lunch at the city's oldest deli to make a ‘Chlebicky' – a messy but delicious open sandwich, smothered in cured meats, and pickled vegetables.

Michael's hotel reveals an entertaining relic from darker days – a nuclear bunker complete with spying control room. He also takes a deep breath learning how to blow 600-degree hot glass as tries to create some of the city's world famous glassware before taking the culinary plunge by sampling local delicacies – raw steak tartar and bone marrow – as old school cuisine makes a comeback.

He then gains access to the workings behind the amazing 15th-century astronomical street clock – which anyone can get for a tenner – and then it's off to the historic Jewish Quarter where Michael finds surprise after surprise, including lighting the city's gas street lamps with the world's tallest street lamp lighter – at over 2.5m.

Michael also manages to squeeze in a night in a one room hotel dubbed Europe's ugliest building, visits the country's oldest monastery where the monks' beer has been brewed for 1000 years, and laps up the thrills and spills behind the scenes of a dramatic night at the world-famous Prague circus.
 

Join Michael Portillo as he takes us on a Long Weekend to Italy's capital of fashion, design and industry: the dynamic, northern powerhouse of Milan.
Michael's weekend begins on the back of a classic 1960's Lambretta, the iconic Italian scooter that was invented in the city. Meeting a group of biker aficionados, Michael soaks up La Dolce Vita as he's whisked off to see some of Milan's must-see landmarks.

Michael is then given a crash-course on the strict rules of Italian coffee drinking etiquette, before he's given a dressing down by a personal shopper keen to improve his fashion sense.

Feeling courageous, Michael climbs to the roof of the spectacular Duomo Cathedral, the jewel in Milan's crown which is open to the public, and ventures into the "city of the dead" with its impressive graves and tombs in the Cimitero Monumentale. He's also let loose racing a vintage Alfa Romeo, every petrolhead's dream, before taking on all-comers in a game of Bocce, an ancient Italian equivalent to bowls.

Michael soaks up more Milanese culture by going behind the scenes at the Leonardo Da Vinci museum, where one of the master's original 15 century drawings is bought to life in the shape of a huge mechanised lion.

During this action-packed Long Weekend, Michael also learns how to cook the perfect risotto before turning cocktail maker by mixing a Negroni Sbagliato at Bar Basso, the home of this universally popular aperitvo.

He also visits the Torre Branca, the highest point in the breathtaking Sempione Park, spins himself good luck at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy's oldest shopping arcade, and spends the night in Nivigli, the vibrant, Venice-like canal quarter of the city.

The broadcaster heads to the Italian island to explore its magnificent and intriguing ancient capital of Palermo. In a weekend packed with adventure, Michael dines with a duchess, investigates Sicily's links to the Mafia, and journeys off-road to discover an ancient wonder. He also witnesses the incredible transformation of a crumbling 19th century palazzo, hits the beach to cook up a secret seafood speciality, and toasts a Hollywood legend.

Join Michael Portillo for tips and tricks to enjoy a voyage of discovery in the vibrant and captivating Portuguese capital of Lisbon.

On an eye-opening weekend packed with revelation, Michael embraces the sea-faring spirit of the great navigators, savours quirky and fiery Portuguese cuisine, uncovers the origins of James Bond, loses himself to melancholic folk music, witnesses divine illumination at a magnificent monastery, and devours a chocolate cake with global ambitions.

Michael begins by jumping aboard the iconic No. 28 vintage tram, which weaves him through Lisbon's narrow medieval streets to the historic district of Alfama, where he discovers the catastrophic consequences of the 1755 earthquake that destroyed the city, before he squeezes into one of the city's tiniest shops selling just one fashion accessory – gloves.

The lively Campo de Ourique food market gives Michael a true taste of the city when he tries unusual delicacies like goosefoot barnacles and tinned fish tapas, while he also enjoys a salted cod feast at an art-nouveau street kiosk.

Feeling creative, he designs his own tile at a 280-year old decorative ceramic factory in a truly unique Portillo style, and is transfixed by an evening of Fado, the wistful folk music that often fills Lisbon air.

Finding his sea legs, Michael takes the helm of a yacht to sail down the Portuguese Riviera to the elite resort of Cascais, where visits the hotel ‘James Bond' author Ian Fleming met the real-life secret agent who inspired his literary creation, and relishes delicious pastries at the favourite bakery of Portugal's sweet-toothed president.

Piri Piri chicken is synonymous with Portugal and Michael seeks out a restaurant that's become an internet sensation for lovers of this spicy dish. He's also left spellbound witnessing the statue of Christ at Jerónimos Monastery bathed in the unique light of the spring equinox and savours a final treat at a bakery claiming to make the best chocolate cake in world – a big claim he can't help but agree with.

Join Michael Portillo for tips and tricks to enjoy a fabulous long Weekend in the stunning Swedish capital of Stockholm with a mid-winter expedition brimming with Nordic hospitality and adventure.

On an action-packed weekend of discovery, Michael braves the frozen waters of the Baltic Sea, gets swept up in a clash of the icemen, seeks royal approval at a banquet fit for a king, reinvents himself as a glacial Michelangelo, investigates a mighty warship raised from the depths, and tackles meatballs and the humble herring.

Michael's weekend exploring this breath-taking archipelago begins on the island of Södermalm, where he jumps straight into local life by accepting a blind taste test to identify a variety Sweden's most famous food staple – meatballs - including wild boar, elk and reindeer.

Gamla Stan is home to the Royal Palace, and Michael's helps prepare for the imminent state visit of President Macron of France. Dripping in opulence, he's bowled over to see one of the world's largest banqueting tables that's been set to seat a palace record of 170 VIPs.

Feeling adventurous, he travels to Vaxholm where a brave Michael takes an icy plunge by kayaking on a partially frozen Baltic Sea, before he joins thousands of fans at a game of bandy. Similar to ice hockey but played with a ball rather than a puck, Michael's enthralled by this lightning fast contact sport.

Continuing his exploration of this winter wonderland, Michael helps a group of courageous ice divers trawling the city's seabed for rubbish, enjoys a cocktail at the Ice Bar where he also sculpts a leaping fish from a block of Arctic ice, and discovers the ill-fated ‘Vasa' warship, Sweden's greatest warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628.

He also finds time to cook up feast of herring, sample delicious oysters and visit Stockholm Cathedral where he's finds an unforgettable fifteenth century sculpture of St George and the Dragon.